How to relight a gas water heater pilot light
Your pilot light is out and you want hot water back. Here's the safe, step-by-step way to relight a gas water heater pilot light, plus when to call a pro in Indiana.

To relight a gas water heater pilot light, turn the gas control knob to "Pilot," press and hold it down, and click the igniter button until a blue flame appears, then hold the knob for about 30 seconds after the flame lights before releasing it. If the pilot stays lit, turn the knob to "On" and set your thermostat. If it goes out again within a minute, the thermocouple or gas supply needs attention.
We're Indiana water Heater, and we've walked hundreds of Indiana homeowners through this exact fix. Below you'll find the full step-by-step, the reasons pilots fail, troubleshooting for a pilot that won't stay lit, and clear guidance on when it's time to stop messing with it and call us.
Why your gas water heater pilot light went out
A gas water heater pilot light goes out for one of five reasons: a draft blew out the flame, the thermocouple has worn out, the gas supply was interrupted, the pilot orifice is clogged, or the unit's high-temperature limit switch tripped. In Indiana, the most common cause we see between November and March is a downdraft from a cold chimney or a nearby exhaust fan pulling the flame off the pilot.
Here's what each cause looks like in practice:
- Draft or backdraft: Pilot goes out on windy days or when the furnace kicks on. Flame is yellow or lifting off the burner.
- Bad thermocouple: Pilot lights fine but dies the moment you release the knob. The thermocouple is a $10-$20 part that tells the gas valve a flame is present.
- Gas interruption: Utility shutoff, empty propane tank, or a closed manual gas valve. You'll smell nothing and hear nothing at the pilot.
- Clogged pilot orifice: Flame is weak, sputtering, or orange instead of blue. Dust, rust, and spider webs are common culprits.
- Tripped limit switch: Usually follows a overheating event or a blocked flue. This one requires a technician to reset safely.
If you've had repeated pilot outages, it's worth having the whole unit checked. Our gas water heater repair in Indiana team diagnoses the root cause instead of just relighting and leaving.
How to relight a gas water heater pilot light: step by step
Relighting a gas water heater pilot light takes about 5 minutes if the thermocouple is healthy and the gas is flowing. Here's the sequence we use on every call.
- Smell for gas. If you smell rotten eggs, stop immediately, leave the house, and call your gas utility from outside. Do not flip switches or use your phone indoors.
- Turn the gas control knob to "Off" and wait 10 minutes. This clears any residual gas from the combustion chamber.
- Locate the pilot assembly. Remove the access panel at the bottom of the tank. You'll see the burner tube, the pilot tube, and the thermocouple.
- Set the knob to "Pilot." Some valves require you to push down slightly before turning.
- Press and hold the knob down. This releases gas to the pilot orifice only.
- Click the igniter button (or use a long lighter). You should hear a click and see a blue flame at the pilot assembly within 3-5 clicks.
- Hold the knob for 30 seconds after the flame lights. This heats the thermocouple so the gas valve stays open.
- Release the knob. If the flame stays lit, turn the knob to "On" and set your temperature to 120°F.
- Replace the access panel. Wait 15-20 minutes for the tank to begin heating.
If the pilot won't light at all, or lights and dies when you release the knob, jump to the troubleshooting section below. For homeowners in older Indianapolis neighborhoods with drafty basements, we often recommend a Indiana water heater in Indianapolis inspection after two or three relights in a single season.
Gas water heater pilot light troubleshooting
Gas water heater pilot light troubleshooting starts with three checks: confirm gas is flowing to the unit, confirm the thermocouple is generating voltage, and confirm the pilot flame is actually reaching the thermocouple tip. If any of those three fail, the pilot won't stay lit no matter how many times you relight it.
Check 1: Is gas actually reaching the unit?
Look at the manual gas shutoff valve on the supply line. It should be parallel to the pipe, not perpendicular. If you're on propane, check the tank level. On natural gas, confirm with your utility that service hasn't been interrupted in your area.
Check 2: Is the thermocouple working?
A healthy thermocouple produces 20-30 millivolts when heated. A multimeter will tell you in 30 seconds. If it reads below 15 mV, replace it. Thermocouples cost $10-$25 at any hardware store and take about 20 minutes to swap.
Check 3: Is the flame hitting the thermocouple?
The pilot flame should be blue with a slight yellow tip and should wrap around the thermocouple's top half-inch. A weak, orange, or lifting flame means a clogged orifice or low gas pressure. Clean the orifice with a pin - never enlarge the hole.
If all three check out and the pilot still won't stay lit, the gas control valve is the likely culprit. That's a $150-$400 part plus labor, and it's not a DIY job. Our water heater repair in Indiana team handles valve replacements same-day across most of central Indiana.
Why is my gas water heater pilot light not staying lit?
A gas water heater pilot light not staying lit almost always means a failing thermocouple, a dirty pilot orifice, or a gas valve that isn't holding open. In our experience, the thermocouple accounts for roughly 70% of these calls, and it's the cheapest fix on the list.
Other causes worth ruling out:
- Draft: Check the flue and the combustion air openings. A cold Indiana basement in January pulls hard.
- High limit switch: If the tank overheated, the switch trips and cuts gas to the pilot. Reset requires a technician.
- Flue blockage: Birds, nests, or fallen debris in the vent pipe. This is a carbon monoxide risk - do not ignore it.
- Low gas pressure: Utility-side issue or a regulator problem. Your gas company will check this for free.
If you've relit the pilot three times in a week and it keeps dying, stop relighting. Something upstream is wrong, and repeated relights can mask a safety issue. We see this most often in homes around Indiana water heater in Yoder, where older farmhouses have long vent runs that draft poorly in cold snaps.
Common mistakes to avoid
The most common mistake we see is releasing the gas knob too soon. The thermocouple needs a full 30 seconds of flame contact to generate enough voltage to hold the valve open. Count it out - one Mississippi, two Mississippi - and don't cheat.
Other mistakes that cost homeowners time and money:
- Not waiting 10 minutes after turning gas off. Residual gas can flash when you click the igniter.
- Using a lighter without the knob pressed. No gas flows to the pilot unless the knob is depressed.
- Cleaning the orifice with a drill bit. That enlarges the hole and ruins the pilot assembly. Use a pin or compressed air.
- Ignoring a yellow flame. A healthy pilot is blue. Yellow means incomplete combustion - a carbon monoxide concern.
- Relighting without checking the flue. If the vent is blocked, you're pushing exhaust back into the room.
If your pilot flame is yellow or you smell anything off, shut the gas off and call us. Our emergency water heater repair in Indiana line runs 24/7 for exactly this reason.
When to call a professional
Call a professional if you smell gas, if the pilot won't light after two full attempts, if the flame is yellow, or if the pilot goes out more than twice in a month. Those four situations point to a problem a homeowner shouldn't chase alone.
We also recommend calling us if your water heater is more than 10 years old and the pilot has started acting up. At that age, a $200 thermocouple-and-orifice repair often turns into a $1,200-$1,800 replacement within a year. Our water heater installation in Indiana team can walk you through both options with upfront pricing before any work starts.
For homes in the smaller communities we serve - places like Indiana water heater in Bath or anywhere along the rural routes - we schedule same-week visits and carry the common parts on the truck so most pilot repairs are one-trip jobs.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I relight my gas water heater pilot light in Indiana?
Turn the gas knob to "Pilot," press and hold it, and click the igniter until a blue flame appears. Hold the knob for 30 seconds after lighting, then release and turn to "On." If it won't stay lit, the thermocouple or gas supply needs attention.
Why does my gas water heater pilot light keep going out in Indiana?
A worn thermocouple causes about 70% of repeat pilot outages. Other causes include drafts from cold basements, a clogged pilot orifice, a tripped high-limit switch, or a blocked flue. Repeated outages need a technician to diagnose the root cause.
Is it safe to relight a gas water heater pilot light in Indiana?
Yes, if you smell no gas and follow the 10-minute wait after shutting the gas off. If you smell rotten eggs, leave the house and call your gas utility from outside. Never relight a pilot when gas odor is present.
When should I call a pro to relight my gas water heater pilot in Indiana?
Call a pro if the pilot won't light after two attempts, if the flame is yellow, if you smell gas, or if the pilot goes out more than twice a month. These signal thermocouple, gas valve, or venting problems that need proper diagnosis.
How much does gas water heater pilot light repair cost in Indiana?
Typical 2026 pricing in this area runs $120-$250 for a thermocouple replacement, $150-$400 for a gas valve, and $80-$150 for a pilot assembly cleaning. Diagnostic fees usually run $75-$125 and are often credited toward the repair.
Get help with Indiana water Heater in Indiana
If your pilot won't stay lit, or you'd rather not deal with it at all, we'll come out, diagnose the cause, and get your hot water back the same day. We stock thermocouples, pilot assemblies, and gas valves on every truck, so most repairs are done in one visit.
Call Indiana water Heater at 123456789 to schedule service anywhere in our Indiana coverage area.